The final 88km (3 days) from Santiago de Compostela to Finisterre (also know as “the end of the world”) tested my resolve more than any other part of the Camino. The determination I had felt on the way into Santiago dissolved as we celebrated completing the walk with our Camino family. Three of us had stubbornly decided to continue walking to the coast, while the other four opted to drive there and have more time for enjoying themselves. I do not blame them for this decision in the least.
The first morning on the way out of the city found me pretty uninspired. Actually, that is an understatement. I was downright salty at myself for making the decision to walk, and being too stubborn to back out of it. I imagined the other four sitting at a plaza cafe, drinking cocktails and people watching, while we kept walking with no one to blame but ourselves. Well, Will can blame me actually, it was my idea…
Day two on the way to Finisterre was possibly my worst of the entire Camino. It rained, we walked most of the day on pavement, I barfed on the side of the road, I got ravaged by bed bugs… by 20km I was looking longingly at the taxi advertisements posted along the way. I was in “I hate everything” mode, to the point that it actually made me laugh because it got so over the top. Me to Will: “Do you know what sucks?” Will: “Walking?” “Yes, and also Spain. Spain sucks.” And then I would cry, and then I would laugh hysterically. It was a rollercoaster.
On day three we were graced by kilometers of soft dirt trail, and the knowledge that we would see two of our pals in Finisterre soon. We breezed through 20km in misty rain before cresting a ridge and seeing the ocean stretching into the distance below us. In that moment I knew I had made the right decision to push on from Santiago to Finisterre on foot. This was the homecoming I had been hoping for but didn’t quite feel when we walked into Santiago several days prior.
As we walked the remaining few hours to meet our friends, the sun broke through the clouds and we were treated to a view of bright tropical-looking water. That night we got to see the sunset at the end of the world, surrounded by a wonderful group of friends, who we laughed with and hugged and high-fived while letting our accomplishment sink in.